HF radio:
Yaesu FT-100d, 857, Kenwood TS-480, Icom-706-2G, etc...
 

Electrical:
A direct connection to the battery (through the firewall (use an existing grommet), via a #10 (minimum, or #8, preferred. If 3-4 long, otherwise one gage bigger (smaller number).  Use red and black wire (Do not, use the same color, someone will, mix them up!). Fused at 5-10A higher than the radios fuse, example, 25-30A, or as per the radios manufacture.
If, these new wires, will power several radios (make a HAM fuse box, located near the radios), than add up all radios current, divide by two, this should be the main fuse at the battery (typically a, 30-40A fuse). Don't transmit on all the radios at the same time! Fuse each radio (typically, 15-25A each) at the "HAM fuse box," as per the radio manufacture.

A, "HAM fuse box," is a accessory fuse box, dedicated for radios (and other added stuff). It has its own main fuse, usually a 30 or 40A fuse. Uses, #8 red and black wire, directly from the battery. This way the vehicles wiring, remains un strained...
It a good idea if it has a .01uF (RF suppression) and a 2700uF (ripple suppression and to help improve the inrush current for SSB), both at least rated for 50 volts. Also DC surge suppression is a good idea...

OK to used wire that is what is supplied by radio maker. The radio its self should be grounded. The DC wiring, or coax, douse not count.

Some people just use a sealed SLA battery in a box, and remove the battery every night for charging. My concern is lack of a good ground. And that there a 50-100 lb "thing" ready to fly around in an accident, bonk you on the head, and maybe cause a fire (If a standard battery was used then acid could spill and cause damage)...
 

Antenna:
Screwdriver antenna (DK-3, HS, N7LYY, Hi-Q, etc.), or HAM sticks, or equivalent (see cool trick to, fast band changes). Do not use Hustler's whips.

Mount as high as possible. Should not exceed 13.8 ft. Ball mounts must be HD. Be careful if you use the Hustler SSM-1 or 2,
as these are not as HD as they look. The screwdriver antenna must have an upper rigged support. Stick's should also have, 20-60 Lbs fishing line, as an extra support...

Some people use a, "supper magnet mount" (has 4 Large magnets in a "H" pattern), and HAM Sticks. My concern is about adhesion at 75+ MPH, or in an accident, and lack of a good ground...

I have tryed a 9 ft whip and a SGC-237 auto antenna tuner approach. I could not get it to work well on 40-80. It would tune easily 160-6M: Just no one could hear me on 40-160M...
Later I used HAM Sticks, instead of the 9 ft whip, this worked well, on the band of the antenna...
 

Grounds:
As needed. At least, at the antenna, and radio...

If wire is used as "ground" then it should be, no longer than, one tenth of a wave length (936/28.5 (Mhz) = ~32.85 x 0.1 = ~3.29, or about 40 inches on 10M) And, should be a, #12-8 wire, black or green.

The best is flat copper sheet, 3-12 inches wide, the next is, wire braid tinned and covered, old used coax (Not damaged, exposed to water (copper has turned green or black) keep the jacket, twist and solder the center wire and shield, keep the connection flat, if possible), next is raw tinned braid (for inside). Or, any flat 3-6 wires like, 3 wire AC (120V lamp cord), flat trailer wiring, and last is a single #12-8 wire...
 

Other stuff:
I Use Ox-Gard on all electrical connections. This prevents rust (oxidation) between my connections...